Day 5 - Tuesday 31st October - Halloween!

We Will Rise Again by George Rodrigues

I woke about 8.30am but lay in for a while, then grabbed a pastry and V8 from the hotel breakfast before heading back to my room for a much needed cuppa and a write up of the meal from last night. Then I headed off back to the French Quarter to find Bayona – tonight’s restaurant. It turns out to be about 2 blocks from Brennan’s so another easy walk. En route to Bayona I visit George Rodrigues gallery, but unfortunately it is closed. A few doors up there is a gallery selling his work (out of my price league still I’m afraid). There was also work by a couple of other artists that I was very impressed with and ended up buying a print of ‘Lumus Redux’ by James Michalopoulas. I still want a copy of ‘We Will Rise Again’ by George Rodrigues. I have admired the piece since he did it, but having seen the print in real life on the wall of Restaurant August, and then the original silkscreen in the window of George’s gallery I am completely in love with it. Unfortunately, the print is $500 so a bit out of my price league at this time. On the way back I visit ‘La Petit Fleur’, a quaint jeweller's that I had seen the day before. Here I buy 3 gold charms for my bracelet – a fleur de lis; New Orleans masks and a shrimp.

Lumus Redux by James Michalopulos

I wander down to the Farmer’s market and the French market beyond. There I meet a local artist Jon Guillaume – a very talented man, his work is very intense. He is also a very nice guy and I have quite a chat with him before buying one of his signed prints called ‘Hurricane in the Quarter’. I stop for brunch at the Market Café where I have a crawfish pie and chicken & andouille gumbo with a couple of local Abita beers (turbodog). It was very tasty and was accompanied by some excellent jazz by a guy who sounded just like Louis Armstrong (even though he was white). I return to my room to drop off my purchases and then head back out towards Jackson Square.

Hurricane in the Quarter by Jon Guillaume

Louis Armstrong soundalike

I stop at Tower records, which is closing down – I am hoping to get the limited edition version of Black Parade. They didn’t have it, but they did have a Gary Numan set that I don’t have (amazing I know) and so I bought that – 3cd box set of Hybrid + remixes for $15 … bargain! I also had quite a long chat with the shop assistant about GN. Seems he’s got quite a big following in New Orleans. I guess Trent Reznor really helped to build his profile over there. I then walked round Jackson Square. Unfortunately, the perfume shop that had the lovely Bourbon Vanilla perfume is no longer there, in fact most of the shops I remember from my last visit seem to have gone.

crawfish pie, gumbo, beer and crystal hot sauce - a New Orleans feast!

I had decided that I was going to visit one of the fortune tellers. I haven’t had a reading for a few years so was interested to see if anything has improved. I had intended to walk round the whole square before deciding who to visit, but instead stopped at the first teller – so I guess she must have been the right one for me. It was an interesting reading. Like most readings not all of it made sense, but there was loads that did. She asked me no personal details except one thing, was I single or in a relationship. Examining my hands, she then asked me to pick 5 cards from the tarot deck. Finally I would then choose 1 that would represent me. She then used a crystal to draw the energy from my hand and cards to make the reading. She told me that I had a very strong aura and that angels are drawn to me (yeah, right …whatever!). I have several aides who watch over me (this I already knew as I have been told this many times). One especially close is a relative who died of cancer a few years ago, probably a grandmother. She said both my parents were alive and well and that I have a sister, who I am not as close to as I’d like. She told me I had been through some very rough times, and that I had more to go, but that things would soon be getting much better for me. I have a very long lifeline and deserve to have a long life for all the trouble I have had, both in this life and in the 3 I have lived previously. Then she said she needed to check my comment about being single as it didn’t make sense with what she was seeing. She asked if I was seeing anyone, even just as a friend. I said yes and she explained that although we are just friends at the moment she can see it possibly being more in the future, although it will take a lot of time to develop. She said I had been very badly hurt twice before and find it almost impossible to open up to love, but that he would help me open up to love again, which would mean that when my true love arrives (apparently a man with a broken heart, which I will help to mend) I will be ready to love unconditionally again. She also told me she could see money coming my way soon. Not sure how or where it’s coming from but she reckons it will be a considerable amount (perhaps I’m going to win the lottery). I was then told that I work too hard and should cut down, but she was aware that I found it difficult to stop and that it was part of my nature in the same way that helping people was. Unfortunately, she then said that someone who used to be in my life would be coming back into it. The person who hurt me more than any other, who left me for someone else and left me unable to love (yep she really did say it like that) is coming back and there’s nothing I can do to stop it. (Strange this, as the last 3 readings I’ve had have all told me the same thing). She finished by reiterating that generally things would get better for me and I had lots of angels looking out for me, which is a good thing as she also told me there are several people currently in my life who want bad things for me, although they pretend to be my friend to my face. She says I need to work out who these people are and cut them out of my life. Not really sure what I felt afterwards, a bit overwhelmed by information I guess, but she had told me so many things she shouldn’t have known it was hard to dismiss it all completely.

trick or treaters

Walking back to the hotel, I saw loads of people in fancy dress. I wish I was dressing up too, but it’s not the same being on my own. I want to visit the Haunted House on Bourbon Street, but I think that’s going to be packed tonight!

Bayona's menu

My visit to Bayona is disappointingly short and I’m back at the hotel by just after 10pm which included a stop at Wendy’s for milk and a convenience store for coke (I’m not exactly being a rock and roll chick on this holiday, am I?). It was another interesting meal and a bit of an eye opener too. Last night I was almost coerced into sitting at the bar, which was OK apart from the smoking, but it was only this evening that I realised how smoothly they’d done it. I got to Bayona at 7.50pm for an 8pm table. By this time I can hardly walk – lucky I bought those ballet pumps as I could never have walked to the restaurant in high heels. I dressed in a black skirt, with a black devore top, black marcasite jewellery and Halloween nails just for a touch of dressing up. I was immediately shown to my seat (unlike the previous night where I had waited for over 15 minutes at the bar even though the restaurant was almost empty). It was nice to be at a table in the main restaurant area, rather than out of the way or in a corner, but not so nice that it was on the main walkway, so everyone who walked past me looked at me pityingly because I was dining alone.

The service was very quick – they are friendly and attentive, but it is clear they wanted to get me out as soon as possible. My main course arrived at the same time as the couple next to me, but they already had their starters when I sat down, and I am not the fastest eater in the world. This continues with dessert and when I was sitting people watching while I finished my wine I was told several times not to hurry, but just to remind me that my bill was there to be paid. The meal cost $116 including the tip and was lovely. It was completely different from the food offered at August, but yet again tasted completely fantastic. However, I really do wish I hadn’t been there alone.

So I’m sure you want to know what I had to eat, as it was the reason for visiting the restaurant. I had a Sazerac cocktail whilst I was looking at the menu. The Sazerac was the first cocktail ever created, and it was created in New Orleans, so I felt I really ought to try it. It is made with rye whisky and Herbsaint – and to be honest tasted pretty nasty! It was a bit like Benedictine and whisky but with a bitter undertone. For my starter I chose goat’s cheese toast with mushrooms in a cream and sherry sauce. This was followed by a Neiman pork chop with rough grits and spinach and cheese. The dessert was an Appalachian apple stack with a caramel and moonshine ice cream. To go with the entrée I had ½ a bottle of Pinot Noir.

Halloween decorations

I walked back via Bourbon Street. It was really interesting to see all the crowds dressed up and enjoying Halloween. The main Halloween action was over at Frenchman’s Street, but that is outside the other end of the French Quarter and was too far (and too dangerous) for me to walk alone at night and my feet were hurting so badly by then I couldn’t have walked that far anyway. I considered briefly whether to visit Harrah’s Casino on the way back to the hotel, but to be honest I’m far too tight to waste money on slot machines, and I didn’t even fancy sitting in Ernst’s, so went back to the hotel room to listen to MCR and read my book. Once again an early night – I was in bed by 11.30pm, yes disappointing I know in such a party town.

Day 4 - Monday 30th October 2006

Decide that I really must get round to resetting the clocks as I woke an hour early again. Had a leisurely cup of tea or two and got ready for a slow stroll to Brennans. My legs are killing me – I have hardly sat down since reaching Houston – pains running up my shins and my arthritis is playing up big time in my right foot. I dress in my black trousers and grafitti shirt, hoping that this will be considered smart enough, and that I won’t overheat too much as the weather is still lovely – much warmer than anticipated, no rain (in fact not even a cloud in the sky) and quite humid too. Walking to the restaurant I bump into Wayne M Coyne (the lead singer of Flaming Lips) and his girlfriend. They both seem very friendly.

Brennan's Restuarant

Brennan’s is nice, but not quite what I expected. Sure is incredibly expensive though! I was also disappointed that almost all the other diners are in shorts and t shirts. I definitely feel overdressed for the occasion. I have the New Orleans breakfast - a mimosa to start, followed by southern baked apple with cream (nice but very sweet), eggs hussarde (lovely), hot french bread and finally banana’s foster (marvellous but yet again very sweet) with a glass of pinot grigio with the entrée. The tea is awful, they have no idea how to make a decent cup over there, and so I only have ½ a cup and then have 2 glasses of water (not bottled either) which knocks the bill up by $5. The meal took about 1 ½ hours and cost me $82 including tip. At least I can say that I’ve had some world famous dishes in their original settings and the meal left me completely stuffed – I have no idea how anyone could eat the Brennan’s breakfast which is the same as I had but with a 14oz steak and chips before the bananas foster. Unfortunately the table I was sitting at was in bright sunlight for most of the time I was there and they didn’t apparently have any other tables available.

Jackson Square

When I finished my meal I meet up with Leslie and Kim in Jackson Square. Whilst walking down through the French Quarter I am surprised and pleased to hear ‘Jagged’ by Gary Numan coming from one of the cars. Kim tells me that she has had a call from Ashley the security guard. Apparently, she has something for me from Duran Duran. I phone her to give her my address in England, but due to her accent I am unable to make out what it is she is sending me – I think it is a staff t shirt from the festival, as she had mentioned this the previous night, but Kim is convinced it’s DD stuff to make up for their behaviour the night before. Maybe, but I won’t hold my breath. Once again I am overwhelmed by people’s generosity on this trip. I have been lucky to meet so many nice and friendly people. We walk around the French Quarter, trying to find something related to voodoo that isn’t a pencil and then buy one of those commercial cocktails in Bourbon Street (I went for something blue).

Jean Lafitte's Blacksmith's Bar and Shop

By then it is time for the girls to get their taxi to the airport (only a weekend trip for them) and I leave them at their hotel, before hobbling back to my room. I only drink ½ the blue drink, freezing the rest for later, although I didn’t bother in the end as it wasn’t very nice. Having rested for a while I made my way back out to Walgreen’s to stock up on painkillers etc. En route I stop at a lovely boutique in Canal Place shopping mall and buy the cutest black ballet pumps (yep I know, I’m not supposed to wear flat shoes, especially with the way my feet are feeling at the moment, but I couldn’t resist at $28 ). By now my feet are really killing me so I head back for a cuppa and to put my feet up before going out tonight. I can’t decide what to do tomorrow – French Quarter or Magazine Street.

Italian Plaza (almost directly behind where I was staying and en route to Restaurant August)

At 8.30pm I leave to walk (slowly) to Restaurant August. I am dressed in black trousers and my 16-47 blue shirt, with a navy camisole underneath. I am also wearing high heels – a definite challenge considering how much pain my feet and legs are in. The meal is completely amazing – It is, without a shadow of a doubt, the best food I have ever tasted in the whole of my life. The meal is also incredibly filling - although the portions are very much nouvelle cuisine size – the intense flavours ensure that they are more than sufficient. As I was a little early I waited at the bar with a mimosa (better than Brennan’s) and eventually chose to eat there rather than in the main restaurant, not something I had originally wanted, but the other single diners were doing this and after being asked about 5 or 6 times if I was going to eat there I got the hint. However, the bar tenders and serving staff were all very friendly, courteous and knowledgeable, and I did at least get some conversation with my meal. The only downside to this was that it was the only smoking area and so everyone was nipping out for a cigarette between courses.

I chose to go for the 5 course tasting menu with wine pairing – and I wasn’t disappointed by either the food or the wine. First a lagniappe (a little something extra as New Orleanians term it) – a porcini and white truffle zabaglione served in a real white eggshell – amazing! The flavour was really intense and added an interesting flavour to the bread course. First course was a blue crab mousse wrapped in smoked salmon with caviar; shrimp, chilled cucumber and vermouth soup and shrimps and cress in a spicy sauce, accompanied by a rose cava. This was followed by the most amazing food I have ever eaten – I would return to this restaurant purely for this course alone – a white truffle filled raviola on a ragout of wild mushrooms with a truffle sauce. It tasted like nothing on earth I have ever had before. I thought I had died and gone to heaven (well I am a mushroom lover so this was my ideal food). It was paired with a bold and quite heavy pinot noir which was absolutely perfect for the dish. The third course was roasted sea bass. By this time I was already feeling a little full, but was determined to enjoy everything. I felt this course was a little let down by the ham in the sauce. It was very strong flavoured and rather overwhelmed the fish, but there was yet another fantastic mushroom sauce. This was paired with another pinot noir, not quite as bold as the previous one, but still and excellent choice for the dish. Out comes course four and this was quite a large plate – wild boar cooked two ways, with sweetbreads and roasted tomatoes in a vegetable sauce. It was gorgeous, but I was so full up I really had to force myself to eat it, and didn’t enjoy it anywhere near as much as the dish deserved. Another bold red wine with this, although I can’t remember what now, but yet again the perfect accompaniment. Finally, came the dessert - creole cream cheese panna cotta between white chocolate biscotti with a berry compote. This came with a very sweet Hungarian dessert wine called Tokaj. The wine was vile on its own but the perfect offset for the dessert. By this time I was really struggling, but I did manage to get through about 1/2 of it. All this cost me a very reasonable $126 with tip - definitely much better value than Brennan's). Note to self – no more tasting menus!

I then took a very slow walk back to my hotel and read for an hour or so, as I had to wait for the food to digest a little before going to bed. Still feeling shattered so I decided not to set an alarm – I’ll sleep as long as I need to.

Restaurant August